Produced purely from an ancient hyper-local clone of Salamino di Santa Croce, “PerFranco” is named for Gianluca’s grandfather. Paler in hue than “No Autoclave,” it pours a lightly hazy salmon in the glass, yet its overall spirit is more vinous and serious. With a blast of mouthwatering acidity that could awaken one from a coma, it buries its bubbles beneath a bracingly tense texture which delivers notes of wild strawberries and freshly plucked herbs with dirt still clinging to the roots.