Dönnhoff Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl Riesling Kabinett 2019

93 James Suckling | 91 Wine Advocate

$28.99

Description

Country: Germany

Region: Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl, Nahe

Variety: Riesling

Terroir: south facing slope; gravel and loess loam; up to 15-35 year old vines; warm and dry climate, low rainfall

Winemaking: fermented and matured in stainless steel vats; sustainable farming

Dönnhoff’s holdings represent some of the best vineyards in the Nahe and all of Germany. Cornelius Dönnhoff farms ten different Grand Cru sites, including a majority of the top-rated Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle and Oberhäuser Brücke Monopole and is certified Fair N Green sustainable.

The Dönnhoff family first came to the Nahe region 250 years ago, establishing a traditional farm in the village of Oberhäusen an der Nahe, which included livestock and vegetable gardens in addition to some grape growing. Oberhäusen and this part of the Nahe river valley is very pastoral; it feels far away from the relative hustle and bustle of the Rheingau and wine tourism. The countryside is serene and beautiful, marked by steep hillside vineyards in the succession of villages following the river from Norheim to Niederhausen, through Oberhäusen, ending in Schlössbockelheim.

The estate was started by Helmut Dönnhoff’s grandfather, Hermann, in the 1920s. Helmut took over from his father, Hermann Jr. in 1966; at that time there were only four hectares under vine and still quite a bit of farmland, which was rented out. In 1971, the farmland was sold and Helmut turned his full attention to producing quality wine.

Helmut is a very instinctive winemaker with a natural touch that he’s clearly passed on to his son Cornelius, who joined him at the winery 2007. The Dönnhoffs believe in craft and workmanship with the understanding that “winemaking alone cannot bring quality; it can only retain the available quality.” Cornelius is as thoughtful as his father and the two share the same view on winemaking, viticulture, and taste in wine. (skurnik.com)

93 James Suckling – Prototypical Kabinett with a light body, effusive red apples, then a long, mineral finish. Did somebody say this was an off-dry wine? Yes, but the balance make it extremely food-friendly. From organically grown grapes with Fair’n Green certification.

91 Wine Advocate – From very pebbly loess soils, the 2019 Riesling Kabinett Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl is bright and sulfured on the precise, elegant and refined nose. Round and elegant on the refined palate, this is a very accessible Kabinett with flesh and texture and almost a Spätlese character. Pleasantly salty on the intense and persistent finish.

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