Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont 2019

94 Wine Spectator | 94+ Wine Advocate | 94 Vinous



Country: France

Region: Vouvray, Loire

Variety: Chenin Blanc

Terroir: clay has a green tinge, and ample stone and silica present

Winemaking: undergoes temperature-controlled fermentation in large, old oak demi-muids as well as stainless steel vats; aged in large demi-muids

Victor Huet was a Parisian bistro owner, who after WWI, resettled in the town of Vouvray, located in France’s beautiful Loire Valley. He soon purchased his first vineyard, Le Haut-Lieu, and Domaine Huet was born. Victor’s son, Gaston took over the estate in 1937 and built the legacy over the next 55 years despite spending five years in a German POW camp during WWII!

Under the direction of Gaston, the estate prospered. He secured two additional prime vineyards on the Premiere Cote: Le Mont and Clos du Bourg. These two, along with Le Haut-Lieu are the reasons that Domaine Huet is often considered the greatest of all Vouvray producers.

The estate was joined by some important players as the years passed. In 1979 Jean-Bernard Berthome joined, first working in vineyards and then in the cellar as the right hand of Noel Pinguet, the talented son-in-law of Gaston. Then in 2002, a financial partner, Anthony Hwang, was brought into the partnership. Today, the estate is run by Benjamin Joliveau. Under his direction, along with a passionate and competent supporting crew, Domaine Huet is making its most consistently great wines. Certified biodynamic since 1993, Huet is achieving the highest level of transparency, purity, and balance.

For many insiders, the argument over Vouvray’s greatest vineyard comes down to two sites: Le Mont and Clos du Bourg. Undisputably a grand cru vineyard, Le Mont enjoys a choice site on the Première Côte. With less clay and more stone than Le Haut-Lieu, including a high content of green mica, Le Mont yields young wines of intense minerality and often the most linear and precise wine in the Huet lineup. With age, the wines develop great length and finesse. -Polaner Selections

Wine Advocate 94+
Again, Huet’s 2019 Vouvray Le Mont Sec reflects the unique, south-facing nine-hectare vineyard with its pebbly flint (silex) and green clay soils wonderfully! Pure, fresh and flinty on the deep, intense yet also floral and herbal nose that represents a concentrated and firm white stone fruit aroma with lemon and grapefruit notes as well as fennel, anise and cumin hints. The bouquet gets darker and stonier with a lot of aeration (during days, to be honest). The leitmotif, though, remains the characteristic mix of aromatic fruit aromas with flint stone and volcanic basalt tones that, at this early stage and poured straight from the bottle, remind me of the Rieslings from Forst, Pfalz (Germany). In any case, this is like perfume on rocky stones! On the palate, Le Mont Sec is a rich, lush and round, very concentrated yet silky textured, elegant, vital and tightly structured 2019 with a powerful, intense and long finish with lingering salinity intertwined with tight, perhaps slightly dry tannins. I recommend cellaring this round yet tight and concentrated Chenin for a decade and then drinking it slowly over many years and with, hopefully, even better integrated tannins. 13.5% alcohol. 30,000 bottles made. Tasted in July 2020.

Wine Spectator 94
Complex and pure, with just enough ripeness to balance the bracing minerality and acidity. Quite expressive and muscular, with a core of persimmon, kumquat and spice notes allied to a racy spine that lengthens the long, pure finish, where blanched almond notes emerge. Built to age. Best from 2022 through 2034.

Vinous 94
The 2019 Sec Le Mont is precise and beautifully cut. A wine of laser-like focus, Le Mont dazzles with its purity. Citrus peel and floral accents are nicely lifted, but it is the wine’s energy that impresses most. Le Mont is a subtle wine that speaks softly, but what it has to say is priceless.


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