Cantina del Signore Gattinara Il Putto 2016
To say that I am a sucker for the wines of the Alto piedmont would be an understatement. From Carema, to Gattinara, Ghemme, Lessona there is something absolutely compelling about these Nebbiolo based wines. While their neighbors further south in Barolo and Barbaresco tend to be bigger, brawnier versions of the grape, here in the foothills of the alps the Nebbiolo finds an altogether different expression.
While the fundamental aromas and flavors have a definite Nebbiolo character, the structure tends to be almost Burgundian, slightly rustic, with beautiful dried herbs and flowers on the nose and unmistakable stony, cool character gleaned from the cooler alpine influence and the soils of volcanic origin – mostly rocky on a base of granite and porphyry, rich in minerals, particularly iron with a high acidic ph.
The result of all this is an edgy, focused mineral version of Nebbiolo – with wild dried cherry notes, a slight rustic note (as it should!), and lovely tension from start to finish. Chef AJ had a huge pot of incredible meatballs in a red sauce for a private event today and the pairing is off the charts! It is medium ruby with slight brick edges, beautiful aromas of dried flowers, herbs and cherry notes, elegant and fine on the palate, warm, medium bodied and with lovely delineation, warm dried cherry fruit, and a stony, mineral undertone. Just like the Spanna but much gutsier. This is a perfect winter red with pasta, pizza and all kinds of Italian cuisine, but also with just about any meat dish from chicken to pork to lamb and beef.
Founded at the end of the Second World War, the Nervi Family have been the owners of vineyards and winemakers in Gattinara. One of the daughters, Elsa Nervi, married Attilio Delsignore, who was also a vigneron in the region. Together they combined their holdings with a total of five hectares of vines in some of the region’s top sites including Permolone, Lurghe, Sottomonte, Molsino, Villino. In 1960 they began bottling their wine under his own name, calling it”Nervi-Delsignore”.
In 1973 Attilio won a Gold Medal in the Stampa Sera “Concorso Vini Pregiati del Piemonte e della Valle d’Aosta”, an important local competition. But after a decade of improvement to his vineyards and wines, health problems and his eventual passing away forced him to stop making wine and he shut down his label. His son had another career, but he continued to farm the land and sell the grapes, also making a tiny bit of wine for the family. Stefano, Attilio’s grandson, was only ten years old when Attilio died, but now has come back to revive the family tradition and the winery. We are one of the very first to offer this wine in the US! A truly unique and delicious find, we are happy to share it with you today!