A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Kabinett 2019

90 Wine Advocate

Mosel elegancy at its best! Slate meets delicate fruit. With its chilly climate, the valley is perfect for Kabinett and gifts its drinker with a fresh and fruity, really salty yet linear wine.

There is however a good underlying structure of acidity that only waits for mingling into the fruity structure of this impressive Kabinett at maturity!

$21.99

Description

Country: Germany

Region: Mosel, Dhroner Hofberg

Variety: Riesling

Terroir: Harvest along the Dhron river with weathered Devonian slate in mixture with quartzite; Southwest-facing

Winemaking: picked from 30+ year old vines and aged in stainless steel tanks

Just south of Piesport in a small side valley lies the steep, south-facing vineyards of Dhron, named for a tributary of the Mosel. The Dhronerthal (Dhron Valley) is a small tributary of the Mosel, running south, just after Piesport. The steep, southwest facing Hofberg was given the top rating in Clotten’s 1868 Vineyard maps. In the 1950s and ‘60s, the wines of Dhron Hofberg were famous, gracing the tables of fine restaurants. In the 1970s and ’80s, the new generation started to leave the vineyards and move to cities – a generation of Moslaners left their birthrights and many famous but small vineyards were left untended and became relics of the past. Growers in the village abandoned winemaking for work in larger cities, including Andreas’ parents. Adam re-started his family estate while still studying at Geisenheim University and interning at some of the great estates in Germany – Heymann-Löwenstein in the Wininngen, St. Urbans-Hof in Leiwen, and Van Volxem in the Saar. His first official vintage was in 2000 when he was just 21 years old, working a single hectare that was owned and farmed by his grandfather.

Harvest is always done by hand, with a heavy selection in the vineyards. The wines are fermented using only ambient yeasts in old fuder (around 1000 liters) and halbfuder (around 500 liters) and stainless steel. The wines are often left in contact with the lees for an extended period of time after natural fermentation, but nothing is done by rote at the estate.

90 Wine Advocate – “The 2019 Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Kabinett is very fine and elegant on the bright but intense and crispy fruit bouquet that indicates good concentration and interesting terroir. Pretty complex for such a refreshing Kabinett. Round and piquant on the palate, this is a finessed, remarkably fine and stimulating Kabinett with crystalline acidity and moderate sweetness in the finish. I’d keep this Kabinett for at least another 2 or 3 years. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.”

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